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For option description, click on the option name.  To add item to shopping cart, click color option you wish to order. 

Styles marked with a means that the glasses can be fit with a prescription lens.  First, choose the frame you want to make the prescription lens into.  Then select a lens option  from the chart below. Additional options can be added such as tint, UV, and coatings from the tables below.  (For the following brands please see brand page for available options:  Panoptx, H2Optix, Bolle, Serengeti, Vuarnet, Barracuda, Bugz, Rudy Project, Zeal--Note: This is if you want authentic lenses. If you want to save money, our lab can make similar lenses in these products. All lens options below are available for these products with our lab.)   

For frames using a prescription insert ( ) only the options marked with a * are available.

The prices quoted on this website apply to single vision prescription lenses (pair)  4.00 diopters or less with cylinder -2.00 or less.  What this means is that when you look at your prescription, you want to look at the first number across the OD/OS  or Right/Left lines.  If the first number is greater than 4.00 and/or the second number is greater than -2.00, your prescription will be subject to a power charge of $10.  Also, if your power is over 4.00,  you may want to consider high-index lens options to thin out the lens and make it more lightweight.  See lens descriptions for more information.

The prices quoted also apply only to frames with a 6-base curve or less.  If the frame is a 7 or 8 base curve, and additional base curve charge of $20 will be added to your order.  7 or 8 base curve frames are designated by symbol.  Or, the frame description may also describe the frame as having a specific curvature.  To add base curve as a charge in the shopping cart, see the chart above.  Please note, high base curves due tend to create some distortion in higher prescription powers (usually spherical above -4.00 and cylindrical above -1.00) If you are very sensitive to distortion, select a lesser base curve frame.   Wrap frames can be made at your own risk with most prescriptions, but they are not refundable if too much distortion is created by your prescription with the curvature.

In order to properly fill your prescription, we need the prescription as actually written by your doctor. You can fax us a copy of the written prescription at 888-240-6551 or e-mail it to admin@sporteyes.biz.  Or, you can copy it into the comment information on the order form.  If you do not have your prescription available, you can give us your doctor's name and phone number and we can call and get the information for you.   We also need PD (pupil distance) measurements to ensure prescription is made accurately. You can obtain your pupil distance from whomever fit your last pair of glasses.

We have added new equipment so most prescription lenses can be made in 48 hours (subject to RX availablity). This applies to lenses made with our lab only and some styles make take longer (wrap styles, sports goggles, etc.) as they are outsourced to a local lab. See bottom of brand page for estimated delivery times or call or email for estimated delivery times.  Some brands such as Barracuda, Seavision, Tusa, and more can only be made direct from the manufacturer.  See brand page for details. Delivery times are estimates and not guarantees. With prescriptions, if the lens fails any inspection point along the way, lenses will need to be remade and will increase the estimated delivery time.  Thus, average fabrication time is 2-7 working days, but if a lens doesn't pass inspection, it can take longer.  Manufacturer direct lenses typically take 2-3 weeks. 

Prescriptions are custom made products so they are not fully refundable. See return policy page for details.  If the prescription is made wrong (our error) we will remake them at no charge within 30 days.

Lenses (choose one--click on "colors" to add item to cart) (scroll down for more information about available options):

If the glasses you are ordering is on our new shopping cart system, the add to cart buttons won't work. Click here to add these options to the new cart.

Tints:  Add One (click here for lens tint descriptions)

Solid Tint Gray #1 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Gray #2 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Gray #3 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Gray #4 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Brown #1 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Brown #2 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Brown #3 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Brown #4 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Amber #1 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Amber #2 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Amber #3 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Amber #4 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Rose #3 Price: $15.00 Solid Tint Yellow #3 Price: $15.00

Mirror Coatings:  Add One (click here for mirror coating descriptions)

Solid Silver Mirror Price: $55.00 Solid Blue Mirror Price: $55.00

Flash Silver Mirror Price: $65.00 Flash Blue Mirror Price: $65.00

Other Add Ons: Choose as many as you want

UV Coating Price: $20.00 (click here for UV description--Note: UV is included already in polycarbonate or Trivex lens materials, and in all polarized or photochromatic lenses)

Anti-Reflective Coating Price: $65.00 (click here for AR coating functions)

Anti-Fog Coating Price: $60.00 (click here for Anti-Fog Coating Functions)

Anti-Scratch Coating Price: $32.00 (click here for scratch coating description--Note: scratch coat is included already in polycarbonate or Trivex lens materials)

Hi Index Plastic Upgrade Price: $60.00 (click here for Hi-Index upgrade--Note: Hi index can only be added to CR-39 plastic lenses)

Roll and Polish Edges Price: $24.00 Polish Edges only Price: $10.00 (click here for roll & polish description--Note: Rolling not recommended for RX8 frames as rolling can cause lenses to pop out more easily)

RX8 Base Curve Charge Price: $20.00 (required charge on all frame styles marked   as special edging is required on these frames. Note:  See warning here   for RX8 frames)

High Power Charge (up to 8.00) Price: $10.00 High Power Charge (above 8.00) Price: $20.00 (required for prescriptions above 4.00 sphere and 2.00 cylinder)

Prescription lenses can be made out of 3 main materials:  Glass, CR-39 optical plastic, and impact-resistant polycarbonate.  Here are the advantages/disadvantages of each material:

Glass:  Glass was the original material prescription lenses were made out of, however, it is now used on a limited basis.  Glass offers the best optical clarity, meaning that there is virtually no distortion in glass lenses.  This is why it is the material of choice in manufacturers such as Ray-Ban, Revo, Vuarnet, and Serengeti.   However, glass is the least impact resistant of all of the material, and may shatter upon impact.  Shattering means that the lens will split into small pieces which can easily enter the eye and cause permanent eye injuries or even blindness.  Therefore, glass is not recommended for any active sports where a fall or a hit by a ball can shatter the lens.  It is also the heaviest of all the materials which may limit the length of time these lenses can be worn.  Also, the thickness and weight of glass increases as power increases.  Therefore, those with higher prescriptions may find it uncomfortable to wear glass lenses.  However, glass is the most scratch resistant of all materials. 

Plastic:  CR-39 refers to the type of plastic that is used to make prescription lenses.  This is optical plastic and provides very little distortion (more than glass but less than polycarbonate).  Plastic is the most commonly used material for prescription lenses today.  It is more lightweight and thinner than glass making it comfortable to wear.  It is more impact resistant than glass, but may still break and shatter upon impact.  Therefore, it is not recommended for active sports.  It is more scratch resistant than polycarbonate, but will scratch if not properly taken care of. 

Polycarbonate:  Polycarbonate is an impact resistant material.  Most good polycarbonate can be shot at with a .38 caliber bullet and not shatter.  It is becoming used more and more today especially for sports eyewear and sunglasses.  Although polycarbonate is impact resistant, it should not be consider breakproof or shatterproof.  However polycarbonate is the strongest material and will have the tendency to break in large pieces versus small pieces which are not as dangerous.  Polycarbonate is thin and light so it is perfect for those with higher prescriptions.  However, the lens also has the most distortion of any lens.  However, only those very sensitive to distortions will really notice it. Although tough, the material is actually softer meaning it is more susceptible to scratches.  Thus, polycarbonate must be handled with care.  However, better scratch resistant coatings have been created in recent years to help combat the softness of polycarbonate and make it more scratch resistant.  There are higher end polycarbonate (Tegra) with "tuff" coatings that can be rubbed against sand paper without scratching. This is an aspheric lens design which is better for higher lens powers (cannot be made in RX8 frames)  UV coating is also standard in polycarbonate lenses so an additional charge for UV does not need to be added.

Phoenix (Trivex):  Phoenix originated in the defense industry. It is as safe as polycarbonate but offers better optical clarity (same as CR-39 plastic).  They are also more scratch resistant than standard polycarbonate and is more resistant to chemicals.  Trivex meets FDA and ANSI Z87.1 impact safety standards at 1.3mm.  It is the lightest lens available.  100% UV protection is also standard and does not need to be added.

Lens comparison as viewed through an illuminated polarized lens.  Phoenix on left, polycarbonate on right.  Notice the internal stress and distortion in polycarbonate lenses.

OD  -3.50 -1.00 x90                                   Or      R -4.50 +1.00 x180
OS   -2.25 -0.50 x110                                           L -2.75 +0.50 x20

These prescriptions are equal even though they may not look like it.  Let's look at the bolded prescription first. OD refers to your right eye.  OS refers to your left eye.  -3.50 and -2.50 refer to the spherical part of your prescription. Your prescription may show SPH in a grid above.  This is the main part of your prescription and most of your power  lies here.  If you are purchasing a step diopter swim goggle, you would use this number to determine what power to get.  Since the swim goggles are in half diopter steps (0.50) only, you would need to consider the second number of your prescription to determine the proper power for the left eye in our example.  

The second number (-1.00 and -0.50 in our example) refer to the cylinder (CYL) or you may know it as your astigmatism.  This means your eye is shaped more like a football instead of being round.  It is like the fine tuning on a television.  You can see objects, but the higher the astigmatism, the more halo affect you will have around objects.  Minor astigmatism is usually not corrected in contact lenses, and thus for step diopter swim goggle purchases, would not need to be corrected either.  We consider minor astigmatism anything below 1.00.  Normally, with step diopter goggles, we would suggest you round down (or a -2.00 for the left eye)  However, we can combine the first and  1/2 the second numbers for an "effective" power number.  For the left (OS) eye, we add -2.25 and -0.25 (1/2 of 0.50) for an "effective" power of -2.50.  (If you are unsure, simply copy the prescription into the comments and we will make the determination for you).  If your second number (CYL) is larger than -1.00, we suggest you go into a custom made product instead of a step diopter product for the best vision.

The third number is the Axis (abbreviated by the x).  This is the placement of your cylinder prescription on a 0º to 180º plane.  This is necessary component for all custom made prescription lenses.

Now, let's look at the second (non-bolded) the prescription.  R and L are used as some will use R for right and L for left instead of OS and OD.  This prescription, believe it or not, is equal to the bolded prescription.  Why?  Today, most of the industry writes, reads, and fills prescription in minus cylinder (second number).  You can see that the bolded prescription has a minus (-) sign in front of the second (cylinder) number.  This is the modern way of writing prescriptions.  However, some older doctors or ophthalmologists will still use plus (+) cylinder.  You can see in the non-bolded prescription that there is a plus (+) sign in front of the cylinder number.  If you are ordering a custom made prescription lens, you do not need to worry about this.  We will make the conversion for you. 

However, if you are ordering a step diopter swim goggle/dive mask, you will need to make this conversion to order the proper prescription for your eyes.  If you do not make the conversion, you will make the mistake of ordering -4.50 and -3.00 lenses (if your prescription reads as the non-bolded one does).  Your actual prescription would read as the bolded prescription requiring -3.50 and -2.50 lenses.  This is why the conversion must be made. Please note:  If you have plus (+) number in front of the first number (sphere), no conversion is necessary.  This just means that you are farsighted rather than nearsighted (minus prescriptions).  If the first and second numbers are plus (+), then you will need to make the conversion. This conversion is simple if you understand basic algebra. Again, if you are unsure, just simply enter your prescription and we will make the determination for you.  Here is how to make the conversion.  Add the first and second numbers together {(-4.50) + (+1.00)=-3.50 for the right eye and (-2.75) + (+0.50)=-2.25 for the left eye}.  You then just change the plus (+) sign in front of the cylinder to a minus (-) (-1.00 for the right and -0.50 for the left).  This is all you will be concerned with as the placement of the axis is not necessary for step diopter goggles.  However, for those interested, you would then add or subtract 90º so that it is a number between 0º and 180º (180-90=90 for the right and 20+90=110 for the left).  Once you have made the conversion,  you can use the same rules for determining the right strength the step diopter by adding 1/2 the cylinder to the sphere power to determine the "effective power" as described above. 

We also need a PD measurement in order to properly fill your prescription.  This is usually not written on your prescription, but is a measurement taken by the optician filling the prescription. However, since we do not have you sitting in front of us to take the measurement, we need you to provide this information to us.  A PD refers to your pupilary distance, or the distance between your pupils.  Do not attempt to take this measurement yourself as it is taken with your eyes looking in different directions.  A PD ensures that the center of the lenses line up with the center of your pupils.   PD is not necessary for step diopter products.

Sorry, but bifocals and progressives require taking very precise measurements with the glasses on your face.  Thus we are unable to fill these on-line.  We can, however, fill them in our retail store in Downtown Portland, Oregon.  Or, we have press-on bifocal segments that can be purchased separately. These are bifocal segments that use static electricity to stick to the back of your lenses.  Click here for more information.

Lenses colors are grouped into two categories: functional tints and fashionable tints.  Since you are creating a custom made prescription lens, you do not need to use the lens color that the frame you choose comes with.  Therefore, a frame that comes as a plano (non-prescription) sunglasses gray lens, can have a yellow prescription lens.  You can also add options such as polarized or photochromatic that may not be available in the plano version.  (see chart below for these options).  The only exception is if ordering the following brands:  Serengeti, Revo, Ray-Ban, and Vuarnet.  The lenses for these brands are made directly from the manufacturer, and therefore, come with the respective manufactured lenses.

Functional Tint Colors: (listed in order of popularity) Gray and Brown/Amber tints are available in grades from 1 to 4 where 1 is almost clear and 4 is a true sunglass lens. Other color tints are available in a 3 level as a standard. If you want a different level, it is available by special request. Other fashion tints such as blue, green , purple, etc. are also available by special request.
Dark Gray: A true sunglass lens.  Red based, it offers the darkest tint available for bright conditions.  May color distort giving objects a red cast.  Good general purpose lens.
Brown or Amber:  Red or Yellow based lens for contrast enhancement.  Good for bright to medium lighting conditions.  Gives red or yellow cast to objects, but blocks blue light to allow better depth perception especially on green (grass) or blue (sky) backgrounds.  Used primarily for sports. Amber lens has more orange color to it than brown.
Yellow:  Low light high contrast lens.  This lens will tend to brighten things up so it should not be used in sunlight.  Used often by skiers and hunters on overcast days.  Blocks blue light to enhance contrast and depth perception.
Vermilion or Rose:  Low light to medium light lens used often by cyclists, hunters, and fishers in early morning or early evening lighting.  Offers good contrast enhancement but will color distort giving objects a rose cast.

Fashion Tints: (available by special order only)
Light Gray/Brown:  Light versions of the Gray and Brown lenses above.  Mostly indoor tints to help cut glare of inside lighting.
Blue, Green, Purple, Pink:  All fashion tints for indoor use.  Do not block any sunlight.  Part of a current fad in lens colors.

Mirror Coatings:
Solid Mirror: Vacuum coatings put on over the base tints above.  Help reduce light and glare in bright light conditions.  Mirrors reflect light away from the eye which is good for light sensitive people.  Available in Silver or Blue. Other mirror colors available by special request.  Solid Mirror gives the lens a complete mirrored look. 
Flash Mirror:  Vacuum coating put on over the base tints above.  Help reduce light and glare in bright light conditions.  Available in Silver or Blue.  Flash mirror gives a slight mirror finish to the lens that can only be seen when moving the lens in the light.  Does not give the solid mirror look.  More popular today than the solid mirrored look. Other mirror colors available by special request.

Solid/Gradient Tints:
Most tints are solid.  However, gradient tints are available by special order.  Gradient tints start dark at the top, and grade down to almost clear near the bottom of the lens.  Mostly cosmetic, these tints were popular in the 70's but are still used by some people today.

In addition to choosing the basic lens material and color, you may also choose to add some of these options to make your glasses more "high-tech". 

Polarized:  When you wear sunglasses, do you still feel like you are squinting?  One of the most popular options today is polarized lenses.  In bright situations, light is often reflected off of flat surfaces such as sand, water, snow, car hoods, etc.  This light manifests itself into what we call glare.  Essentially, polarized lenses absorb 98% of that glare so that you don't have to squint.  Your eyes are more relaxed as they do not have to deal with glare.  Polarization is not a coating. It is a filter that is sandwiched between two lenses.  Therefore, polarization is not something you can simply add to your existing glasses. It requires creating a whole new lens. Tint and UV are included.

Photochromatic:  Photochromatic lenses are also a new popular option.  These are what people often call "changers" because they change color with varying lighting conditions.  Indoors they are almost clear or lightly tinted.  Outdoors, they are dark sunglass lenses.  Typically most prescription photochromics change from light to dark, but some manufactures are making lenses that change from a medium tint to a dark tint.  Since this limits the lenses use, we offer the photochromatics that change from nearly clear to true sunglass lens.  Other types of photochromics are available by special order.  Call 888-223-2669 for more information. Photochromatic lenses are useful on sports glasses if you play during the day and at night or if you play indoors and outdoors.  It allows you to have one pair of prescription lenses than can be used for all lighting conditions.  Please note:  Photochromics do not change because of sunlight, but rather by UV rays.  Therefore, they will not change while driving a car as the car windshield will block the UV rays necessary to change the lens color (note: see Drivewear lenses below for lenses that do change behind windshield). Tint and UV included. For plastic, Trivex and polycarbonate lens materials, we use Transitions® lenses (most current generation--we do not use past generations of lenses--be warned that some places may charge less because they are using previous technology.  We only use the most current technology for all our lenses).  For glass lens materials, we use PhotoGray® or PhotoBrown® technology.

Polarized Photochromatic: Drivewear lenses. Utilizes both Transitions and NuPolar polarized lens technology.   The only polarized photochromic lens that will actually darken outside as well as behind the windshield of a car.  Reacts to different weather conditions from overcast to bright light by utilizing visible as well as UV light.  Enhances the eyes' natural functions to provide optimum vision.  High efficiency polarizer that blocks blinding glare.  Blocks 100% UVA/UVB.  For more information and technical details,visit www.drivewearlens.com. Note: does not go to clear like traditional Transitions lenses so these lenses should not be used for night driving. Available in powers -8.00 to +6.00 only.

	Overcast or low light conditions color (high contrast green/yellow color).  Designed to maximize useful light information reaching the eye.  Polarized to remove glare that would otherwise destroy vision in low light condition.
	Daylight driving conditions (copper color) behind windshield.  Designed to remove excess light and provide good traffic signal recognition, highlighting reds and greens.  Polarized to remove glare for safe driving vision.
	Bright light outside conditions (dark reddish brown color) outside car.  Designed for maximum filtration of excess light so that the eye does not get saturated.  Polarized to provide maximum comfort in high light conditions.

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Anti-Reflective Coating:  Like polarized lenses, anti-reflective coatings help reduce glare.  However, unlike polarized lenses, anti-reflective coatings (AR) are coatings that can be put on a lens after it has been made.  When light passes through a lens, about 16% of it is reflected and bounces back into space, thus causing glare.  Anti-reflective coatings allow 99% of the light to pass through the lens, thus, minimizing glare.  AR is a popular lens option for regular glasses as it also has the cosmetic feature of looking like there is no lens in your glasses.  However it also has the drawback of needing to be kept clean.  Any dirt or fingerprints will be magnified with an AR coated lens.  This is a good option for clear glasses that are used at night as artificial lighting often causes unnecessary glare.  For sunglasses, a back surface AR coating is often used.  It is used on the backside so that any light that comes in through the back of the lens is not reflected back into the eye. This option is highly recommended for lenses with mirror coatings as back reflectance is more noticeable with a mirror.

Anti-Fog Coating:  Opticote's Fog Free eliminates the “white wall” effect that occurs when making the
transition from one temperature to another. Tested by COLTS Laboratories, Fog Free is a thermally-cured coating found to be superior to other applications. Whether it’s a matter of safety or convenience, with Opticote's Fog Free the quality of vision is never compromised. here is no guarantee your lenses will not fog with this coating but it will work better than a non-coated lens.  Fogging is an individual issue depending on how much body heat is generated and how much airflow there is on the eyewear worn. Periodic rejuvenation of Fog Free coating is recommended for optimal performance.  Note: Cannot be applied to tinted or Anti-reflected coated lenses. T

Ultraviolet Coating:  Another coating that can be added to your glasses is an ultraviolet (UV) coat.  Just like sunscreen, this is a necessary coating for all glasses that will be used outdoors as UV has been linked to serious eye diseases including cataracts.  What is the purpose of sunglasses if they don't protect your eyes?  UV coating is included with the following lenses:  All polycarbonate lenses, polarized or photochromatic lenses.

Scratch Resistant Coatings:  Another coating that can be added to a lens is scratch resistant coatings.  However, the name is misleading.  Scratch resistant means that a coating is placed on the lens so that lens itself does not scratch.  You can still easily scratch the coating which will seem like scratches until the coating is removed and replaced.  What scratch resistant coatings do is essentially prolong the life of your lenses.  They are not an expensive option, but most of the time if you take good care of you glasses, you do not need it.

Hi-Index Lenses:  High index lenses thin out the weight and thickness of high prescription lenses.  This is often recommended for those with prescriptions above a 4.00, but can be used by anyone who cosmetically wants to improve the look of his/her glasses.  It is a plastic material, so it is not recommended for those who will be using his/her glasses for contact or ball sports.

Roll and Polish Edges:  Another way to thin out thick lenses is to roll and polish the edges over.  this eliminates the frosted "bottle bottom" look by making the sides of the lenses look more like the front while cutting down on thickness.  An inexpensive cosmetic alternative to hi-index.  It can also be used in conjunction to high-index lenses to further cut down the visible thickness of the lens. Polishing only makes the edge surface shiny instead of opaque and cloudy. Cosmetically looks better. Does not cut any lens thickness out though like adding the rolling, but is an inexpensive way to cosmetically improve the look of the lenses.

We have added new technology that allows us to make most prescription lenses in 48 hours (may take a few days  longer if lens does not pass inspection, or for higher prescription and special options like polarized or photochromatic--mirrors take 2 weeks). This applies only to lenses made by the A Sight for Sport Eyes lab. For lenses made directly by the manufacturer (i.e. Zeal, Rudy Project, Bolle, Serengeti, H2Optix, Vuarnet, Panoptx, Bugz, Barracuda, Seavision, etc.), prescriptions will take 1-4 weeks depending on the manufacturer (see each individual brand page for more details).  This does not include the time it may take to get a non-stock frame in stock (1-5 days).  If you have time limitations, call or e-mail us to check stock on a particular frame to ensure fast turn around.

Why does it take so long? In the industry, there is something we call Z80 standard. This says that a prescription can be off a certain amount and still be within tolerances.  We do not use the Z80 standard, but we use exact Rx.  Therefore, if the prescription is off at all, we will re-do the lens.  This is the reason it takes a little longer to make your prescription lens.  All lenses must pass a 10 point inspection and proper impact tests. For prescription lenses made direct from the manufacturer, we unfortunately do not have any control over the time as the lenses are not made with our lab and we are at the mercy of the manufacturer's lab.